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The Origins of Greenhill including the Knights Hospitaller

Welcome to the Greenhill Gardens Heritage Trail

Discover the early days of this inner-urban district and how it grew into a vibrant, resilient part of Swansea.

A Rural Outskirt Transformed

Before the 1800s, Greenhill was open farmland. A few scattered cottages—some thatched—dotted the landscape beyond the medieval town’s northern boundary. The High Street, now one of Swansea’s busiest roads, was once a rural track passing fields and hamlets with names such as Waun Wen (“white meadow”), Brynmelyn (“yellow hill”), and Dyfatty (“sheep house”).

The growth of industry at Landore and the Tawe Valley, particularly copperworks and pottery from the 18th century onward, pulled in workers from rural Wales and famine-stricken Ireland. By the 1820s, the area had changed dramatically. Sketches by Paul Padley (1795) and maps by John Evans (1823) show swelling clusters of housing stretching toward Dyfatty. Greenhill became known for its densely packed terraces and later, for the deprivation associated with urban slums.

What’s in a Name?

The name “Greenhill” predates the Irish influx and was first recorded in 1641. The actual hill, seen clearly in an 1819 map, lay east of the main road just short of Dyfatty. The area west of the road held St John’s Church, now Matthew’s House. The name likely referred to the area’s fertile, grassy pastures before becoming associated with urban hardship.

Image: 1819 Greenhill Map

Greenhill was never just Irish—it was always diverse. Irish Catholic communities did play a vital role, building St Joseph’s Cathedral and contributing to the area’s culture, but Welsh families, English traders, and there were other chapels of various denominations (St Mark’s, Carmel Chapel) created a vibrant and often tightly woven neighbourhood.

Local oral histories, compiled by Rob Sheffield in his book Pieces of Us, speak of resilience and neighbourliness:

  • “If anything were wrong, they’d be there in a minute.”
  • “The swirl of enjoyable social activity strengthened the bonds that led people to seeing and helping each other.”
  • “I couldn’t wish to be brought up anywhere better.”

Read more: https://www.cambriabooks.co.uk/product/pieces-of-us/

Matthew’s House: A Site of Continuity

Today, Matthew’s House stands on the site of the historic St Matthew’s Church, which itself was once known as St John-juxta-Swansea. This church dates back to around 1165, when Robert son of Walter gifted lands to the Knights Hospitaller to build a chapel. The site is among Swansea’s oldest centres of worship and care.

By 1221, Marcher Lord John de Braose added lands in Hafod and Manselton (Millwood and Borlakesland) to fund the chapel. Though originally a Knights Hospitaller chapel, it eventually became a parish church for surrounding areas, even though it sat technically within St Mary’s parish.

Swansea in the 12th Century: A Norman Outpost

In the 12th century, Swansea was not yet the bustling urban centre we know today. It was a small, but strategically significant Norman frontier town, a coastal stronghold guarding the edge of a newly conquered and often hostile territory. The Normans had arrived in Gower around 1116, establishing Swansea as the military and administrative headquarters of the Marcher Lordship of Gower—a semi-independent realm governed by Norman lords loyal to the English crown.

The Walled Town and Castle

Swansea’s power base lay in its castle, much larger in its heyday than the ruins visible today. The castle bailey stretched across what is now Castle Square, extending from High Street to Wind Street. A dense cluster of fortifications created a double ring of defences to protect the town and its elite. The main castle buildings themselves were situated slightly north of the current remains, showing how central this stronghold was to the Norman design.

The town was enclosed by walls, with a north gate near what is now King’s Lane, a western limit around St Mary’s churchyard, and the River Tawe forming the eastern boundary. Entry to Swansea for those arriving from the north—Carmarthen, Llangyfelach, or Neath—was along what is now High Street, then a rural lane flanked by fields and scattered farms. These travellers would have passed a modest chapel, St John-juxta-Swansea, now the site of St Matthew’s Church and Matthew’s House just outside Greenhill.

Image: Image of North Gate Location – King’s lane

The Knights Hospitaller and the Chapel of St John

The small chapel that eventually became St Matthew’s Church was originally constructed by the Knights Hospitaller, also known as the Order of St John of Jerusalem—a medieval religious and military order founded to care for pilgrims and crusaders. Around 1165, Robert son of Walter gifted the order land in Swansea to establish a chapel dedicated to St John the Baptist.

This makes the building’s origins some of the earliest documented church foundations in Swansea and Gower. In 1221, John de Braose, the Marcher Lord of Gower, granted the Hospitallers additional land in Millwood and Borlakesland (modern-day Hafod and Manselton)—forming the basis of the parish of St John-juxta-Swansea.

Interestingly, the chapel was never intended as a parish church. It likely became one informally over time as it was increasingly used by local residents—especially as the nearby St Mary’s Church inside the town walls became overcrowded. Tithes from the Hospitallers’ lands supported the chapel, and eventually, a formal parish was created to align income and ministry.

Despite this, St John’s Church remained an anomaly: for centuries, it lay outside the boundaries of the very parish it served. some of the congregation lived in nearby Greenhill, technically under the parish of St Mary’s, until a restructuring in the 19th century corrected this.

More: https://www.sja.org.uk/what-we-do/our-history-heritage-and-museum/

A Community Shaped by Challenge

By the 19th century, Greenhill was among the poorest districts in Swansea. Yet its people were known for spirit and solidarity. Housing was crowded, sanitation poor, but bonds between neighbours ran deep.

Greenhill has long been a place of struggle and survival. In recent memory, that reputation reached a low point when, in 2019, Swansea’s High Street—once a vital artery of the city—was named the “worst high street in Britain” by national media. Reports cited high rates of homelessness, drug misuse, boarded-up shops, and a sense of decline. The area became symbolic of wider urban challenges faced by post-industrial towns across the UK.

Yet such headlines tell only part of the story. Greenhill is not just a site of deprivation—it is a place of transformation, community, and care.

In the years that followed, redevelopment began to take root. Vacant lots were repurposed, derelict buildings refurbished, and student accommodation and small businesses brought new footfall to the area. Regeneration remains uneven, but signs of hope have emerged—and nowhere more clearly than in the work of Matthew’s House.

Matthew’s House: Hope in the Heart of the City

Since 2017, Matthew’s House has operated from the historic St Matthew’s Church as a centre of radical hospitality and community support. Run by The Hill Church charity, it has become a lifeline for hundreds of people each year, offering not just services—but dignity.

Key services include:

  • Matt’s Café: a pay-as-you-feel café using intercepted food waste to serve hot, nutritious meals.
  • Dignity Packs: essential toiletries, clothes, and sanitary products for those in crisis.
  • Showers and Laundry: clean facilities for those without access at home or in shelters.
  • Advocacy and Support: one-to-one listening, guidance, and connection to wider services.
  • Matt’s Choir: a joyful, inclusive singing group that builds community and confidence.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Matthew’s House co-founded the Swansea Together coalition—a city-wide emergency response providing over 100,000 meals, hygiene supplies, and emotional support to people in lockdown poverty. The collaboration evolved into a lasting Food Poverty Network, uniting charities, churches, local authorities, and volunteers in shared purpose.

This work has earned national recognition:

  • Queen’s Award for Voluntary Service (2021) – the highest award a UK charity and its volunteers can receive.
  • Big Issue’s Top 100 Changemakers with special award (2025) – recognising innovative, people-powered change.
  • St David Award Nomination (2022) – for outstanding community impact in Wales.

A Living Legacy

Today, Matthew’s House continues a 900-year tradition of service on this site—stretching back to the Knights Hospitaller, who first built a chapel here in the 1160s. Just as they cared for the poor, sick, and weary traveller, Matthew’s House now walks alongside those facing homelessness, food insecurity, and isolation.

In 2023, the team took responsibility for the surrounding graveyard, transforming it into Greenhill Gardens—a peaceful, reflective space, blending history, heritage, and hope. The garden tells the story of Greenhill not just through the lives of its saints, workers, or reformers—but through its everyday people, remembered in stone and celebrated in soil.

This is Greenhill today: bruised but never broken. A place where faith and hospitality still rise, quietly, from the ground up.

Sources and References

  1. Rogers Rees, J. ‘Slebech Commandery and the Knights of St John’ Archaeologia Cambrensis, Vol. XIV no. LIV, April 1897. https://journals.library.wales/view/2919943/3011270/16#?xywh=-547%2C1573%2C3191%2C2047
  2. Gabb, G. Swansea and its History, Volume II (2019), p.1292
  3. Morgan, W. Ll. An Antiquarian Survey of East Gower, Glamorganshire (London, 1899)
  4. Listed Building Entry: St Matthew’s Church (Coflein) https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/404160/
  5. Matthew’s House – Swansea Together Project https://matthewshouse.org.uk/swansea-together/
  6. Cambria Books – Pieces of Us by Rob Sheffield https://www.cambriabooks.co.uk/product/pieces-of-us/
  7. Medieval Swansea Project – Pavement Markers Tour https://medievalswansea.ac.uk/en/tours/pavement-markers/
  8. St John Ambulance – History and Heritage https://www.sja.org.uk/what-we-do/our-history-heritage-and-museum/
  9. Daily Mail (2019) Article on Swansea High Street: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6866569/Businesses-Swansea-say-shutting-shop-amid-plague-drug-addicts-prostitutes.html
  10. Matthew’s House – Project History https://matthewshouse.org.uk/history/
  11. Welsh Government – St David Awards Profile on Matthew’s House https://www.gov.wales/st-david-awards/matthews-house
  12. Big Issue – Changemakers 2025: Matthew’s House https://www.bigissue.com/news/activism/changemakers-2025/
  13. Queen’s Award for Voluntary Service (2021) – Full List https://qavs.dcms.gov.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/QAVS-2021-List-Accessible-1.pdf

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